March 22-29 - "The Spanish Cat Adventures", Mexico City, Mexico

Por supuesto, I was hoping that I would have an empty seat next to me on the airplane, since technically I had purchased two seats and David assured me he wouldn't show up. But, as luck would have it, a young Japanese couple with a 6 month old baby boy sat down beside me. In my old life, before I became a baja girl, this would have been the ruin of my day, but I saw an opportunity to have a little fun and I immediately set out to charm this baby boy. Of course, I was successful as soon as I pulled out my Hello Kitty in a sombrero. He smiled and giggled, between naps, and I was even able to cuddle him long enough to give his lovely Momma little break. I'm reasonably certain his laughter was the result of never seeing anything so funny-looking before, referring to me of course, because the Hello Kitty was actually fairly dignified, but that's his little secret. We played peek-a-boo for two hours! Que bueno!

As the plane began to descend, I was so glad that I had a window seat. The colors!!! Los colores!!! The barrio near the airport has painted itself in every bold and brilliant color I could name. Every green was represented, from lime green to sea green. The jacaranda trees were in full bloom and there were rows and rows of streets lined in violet. Purple walls, orange buildings with green doors, blue stores with yellow windows, it was a gorgeous tapestry, all set against the perfect blue sky. I wanted the landing to last forever. I was not met at the gate as hoped. But, then I remember, soy una chica de baja y estoy en Mexico - of course my escort was going to be un poco tarde. Alex eventually showed up and charmed me right away when he asked "Do you have hungry?"

As it turns out, I could not have planned a better night for my arrival into Mexico. It was a very special holiday and the hour long ride was happily punctuated with fireworks all the way. Every few minutes, a large cloud of sparkles would appear. The smaller the pueblo, the bigger the boom. We drove into a little town that was in full celebration mode. Everyone was in the street which was lined with vendors. Such an interesting difference in how Mexicans celebrate Easter: all shopping and eating and drinking all night long! Americans: all somber except for quiet little Easter egg hunts. Alex drives me from Cuenevaca to Tepoztlan. I fall in love so easily...I am in love with this little town immediately. I can't wait for tomorrow. I can't wait to wake up and explore. I am taken inside this large compound and introduced to my fellow students. They are all middle aged ladies, like me. But, they are eager to go out dancing (which is something I have never learned to do) and I am eager to go to bed.

I awoke to my favorite Mexican sounds: birds, roosters, and woodpeckers...and some not so favorite sounds: car alarms. No one else is up, so I get dressed and sneak out to explore. I walk up and up and up a cobble stoned path. No one else is to be seen...so I sit on the wall of the church and look up. The mountains are so beautiful...bougavillia (sp?) in pink, red, fushia and purple spill out from every yard. And, then the church clock strikes eight and its as if the entire town shows up on the street at once, like a choreographed musical. I sit and watch; what is more beautiful? The people or the mountains? The old lady who wears the experience of her life on her face or the young boy who is eager to experience life? Suddenly-ish, I have hungry,and I ask a passerby, disculpe, donde es un
restaurante bueno? Necessito cafe y postre esta manana.

Of course, he points me down and down and down the street to a building I had passed on my way to the church. As I walk, I see a woman with her elderly father, helping him up some stairs. The sign says "Restaurante Tere" - esta bien. "Es el restaurante abierrto?" "Si" she points me upstairs. I go up the stairs first and find Momma busy in the kitchen.

Buenos dias
Buenos dias
Tengo hambre, tiene desayuno?
Si, quiere huevos?
Si...
Huevos mexicana?
Si, mi gusto mucho huevos Mexicana!
Con chiliquenos?
Un poco, solemento un poco.
Y, necessito cafe con leche, mucho cafe, por favor.

The daughter is taking down chairs and I help her. She sets my table and I sit down. Moments later, a small simple breakfast appears. This is another thing I like about Mexico: the meals are proportionate to what a normal person would eat. There is none of this gluttonous over-feeding which is the norm in America. It is just enough so I don't have any more hungry, but I am not so much full that I feel stuffed and sick of food. I sit and look up. And, suddenly, Poppa says "Senorita, aqui." He beckons me to follow him.

"Camera?" (And, because I am an idiot, no, no tengo mi camera.) He points his fingers from the patio we are on and upward. I see the stairs. "Vamos...up..." Entiendo!

I take the uneven, ever so unsafe - but who cares - stairs up and up and up. And, here is the vista that takes my breath away. The colors of the small city are in a valley of mountains...dark brown volcanic cliffs with green tuffs. The morning mist is still rising...the colors! Even the laundry hanging next door is colorful...I laugh at myself...oh, brilliantly done, Lisa, you have about $1000.00 sitting in your purse downstairs...but I know that everything is safe. I walk around the patio for several minutes. I finally break away and head downstairs again. I am proud of myself, I have my spanish manners. I can let them know how grateful I am,and I look forward to bringing my camera tomorrow.

I reach into my purse and find the "Clinique lipgloss" I purchased yesterday at the Dutyfree shop. I offer one to the daughter; she is pleased. I pay the modest bills (48.00 - pesos!) which includes coffee and water. I say "Adios, amiga, muchas gracias, hasta manana" y "Hasta manana, Mommacita y Papa!"

I knew I would love it here before I arrived...and I do...estoy aqui, en
Tepoztlan.

****

Baja girls have many wonderful qualities, but the most important are kindness and patience. Here is a demonstration of how well these skills work to improve life, for everyone.

I arrived at the Mexico City airport at nine for an eleven o'clock a.m. flight. The lady at the ticket counter was yawning and I was very tired also. She looked at my passport and at the screen of her computer. She looked again and again before finally informing me that the flight was "closed."

I suspect that what had happened was that I was arbitratily bumped off of the flight, because her charming explanation was that the flight needed to be "balanced" because of the weather. I have flown many times to many places and I never heard of that, as if my personal body weight and luggage would throw everything "off balance." (Can you imagine the evening news: "Flight 990 from Mexico City to Los Angeles crashed today, apparently the result of having one chubby passenger too many, making the plane "unbalanced.") I am not mistaken, however, she is using hand gestures to explain the need to balance the plane.

But, I remained "tranquilo" - calm, kind and patient. I never raised my voice, never expressed anger or upset with her. In other words, I never treated her as if she was, somehow, personally responsible for this dilemma. Just expressed my sadness and asked if anything could be done. She walked around to speak with her supervisor. She offered apologies, and I said "Entiendo" - I understand. Still, I expressed that "si possible, quiero salir son las once" - if possible, I would like to leave at 11.

The plane was "closed." After a half hour of her tireless efforts on my behalf she gave me this: a first class ticket on the 2:45 p.m. flight and the best advice ever: she told me to go to the gate and ask to speak to the supervisor. If someone did not show, maybe they could get me on the flight. I pray for a miracle and head to gate 29. One hour to take off. I arrive and, again, using my best Spanish and best manners (important baja girl skills) I request to please speak with a supervisor, I explain how the kind lady at the counter said maybe she could help me please, and could she please, please get me on this flight. She looks at my ticket, and told me to wait. No upset, no grief, no insistence. Por favor, quiero salir en este viaje. Muchas sonrisas - many smiles.

I prayed for a miracle and sat down to wait. Thirty minutes to take off.
Ten minutes later, I am provided a ticket for the 11:05 flight - and a first class seat.

Un milagro o the result of using my baja girl skills?

Any questions or suggestions:
bajagirladventures@yahoo.com